I noticed, for example, when I took a quick walk this morning, that there is a real scent of spring after this past weekend of heavy rain and howling winds in the Hudson Valley. It is a mix of thawing earth, damp leaves, and a certain “green” freshness.
This made me spend a little time looking through my collection of scents, thinking what I might wear to celebrate these subtle changes, and to look ahead a little toward warmer weather, longer days, and the coming blossoms.
In the winter, I like scents that are a bit spicy, woody, and complex, even a little challenging. My absolute winter favorite for the past year or so has been Luctor et Emergo, by People of the Labyrinths, a “niche” perfume house. It is a strong, incense-based scent, with an almost hot undertone of vanilla that dries down in a very subtle way. You smell wood; you smell some fruit; you smell something sweet yet mature. I never wear it that someone doesn’t stop me and ask about it, but I always say it isn’t for everyone because it isn’t really what I would call a “pretty” scent at all! It is, however, an amazing and complicated blend.
Another winter scent that I love is by Keiko Mecheri: Scarlett. This is another spicy scent, with a lot of rose that springs into bloom with the first spray. But very quickly, the spices rise up again, and suddenly there is a cold, green scent that lingers until it finally drifts away after many hours. This is a scent that is like getting a bouquet of deep red roses on a snowy day, and although it is aimed at women, I think a man would smell fabulous wearing it.
But now it’s time for something lighter and brighter. Looking at the bottles in my collection, I think of two favorites that are right in line with the coming of spring.
Tocca is one of my favorite perfume houses. I’ve never found a single one of their scents that isn’t lovely and well-designed. For spring, I love their wonderful Florence fragrance. To me, it captures so much about early spring in Italy. When I think of spring, I think of violets and iris, and in late February and early March, flower stalls in Italy are always filled with these flowers. Add to those deep, watery-blue fragrances the sharpness of bergamot, and there it is: a glamorous and fresh breeze of scent that never overpowers, but always intrigues. (When I wear it, I think of those stylish Roman women, zipping around town on their Vespas, Pucci scarves fluttering in the wind – and heading for lunch on the Via Veneto. Don't you wish you were there, too?)
Just about my favorite perfume designer is the great Jean-Claude Ellena of The Different Company. Ellena has designed some of the great modern perfumes for houses like Hermes and so many more, but my favorite of all is his Osmanthus, based on a flower native to China. The essence of this little white bloom is rendered into a paste (“concrete” in perfumese), and is the base of this scent. To this sweet, light, haunting aroma, Ellena added dark green, leafy scents and luscious fruits. You can smell tangerine; there is a note of ripe peach, there is a hint of lemony bergamot. And just when you think the display is over, there arises a lovely, subtle rush of pale roses, warm straw and lingering white musk. It’s just delicious and spirit-lifting!
Another way to enjoy the fragrance of osmanthus is to brew a cup of springtime gui hua tea. Gui hua is the osmanthus blossom, carefully dried and preserved. As the flower dries, the white bloom slowly deepens to a rich yellow color that tints your tea water like sunshine. As you lift your cup, you can inhale the delicate fragrance and taste the freshness and natural sweetness of this treasure. Visit any good Asian tea supplier for this tea, or pay a visit to the wonderful Takashimaya tea shop and sample a cup surrounded by the beauty of this incredible New York emporium.
However you choose to celebrate spring, I wish you well! Come back soon and visit me – you are always welcome.
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